Black-Tie Updos: Classic Shapes, Clearly Explained

Why updos suit black tie

A floor-length gown, fine jewelry and a long evening all favor hair that is lifted and secured. An updo reveals the neck, shoulders and earrings, and it frames the face without competing with the dress. It also holds its shape far better than loose hair through hours of dining and dancing, which matters on a humid Florida night.

Classic does not mean stiff. Today's versions are often softer, with a little texture and a few loose pieces, so they look elegant rather than set in place.

The classic shapes

These are the names stylists know and use. Each can be made sleek or softly textured, worn high or low, so think of them as starting points rather than fixed recipes.

• Chignon: a knot or coil of hair at the nape of the neck. It suits almost every neckline and is the most versatile choice.
• French twist: hair twisted vertically up the back of the head and pinned into a seamless fold. It is sleek and timeless, lovely with high necklines and halter gowns.
• Ballerina bun: a smooth, round bun set high on the crown. It is dramatic and modern, and it shows off strapless and one-shoulder gowns.
• Low knot with soft pieces: a looser bun at the nape with a few strands left free around the face. It reads romantic and relaxed.
• Rolled updo: hair rolled under and tucked along the nape, with a softly vintage feel.
• Braided updo: braids woven into a low bun or wrapped around the head. It holds especially well through a long evening.

Matching the updo to your gown and face

Start with the neckline. A high neck or halter looks clean with a French twist or a smooth bun set higher on the head. A one-shoulder gown pairs well with a low bun placed slightly to the opposite side. An open back is best shown off with a style that sits neatly at the nape and leaves the back clear.

Then consider your face and jewelry. Height at the crown adds length to a rounder face, while soft pieces around the hairline soften strong features. Statement earrings usually call for a sleeker shape, so the two do not compete.

Your hair itself matters too. Fine hair may need texturizing or a small hidden padding for a fuller shape. Very long, thick hair can feel heavy when piled high, so a lower placement is often more comfortable.

How to ask for it

Use the name of the shape, then add a few specific details. Saying chignon alone can mean a dozen different things, but a low, softly textured chignon with a side part and two loose pieces at the front gives your stylist a clear picture. Bring photos of the back and the side, not just the front.

Wear a top with a neckline close to your gown, and bring your earrings or any hair accessory. If the evening is especially important, book a trial a few weeks before.

• Height: at the nape, mid-head or high on the crown
• Finish: sleek and polished, or soft and textured
• Front: center part, side part or swept back
• Face-framing: none, a few fine pieces or soft, fuller tendrils
• Extras: a braid, a jeweled pin, a comb or a headpiece

Comfort, and taking it down gently

An updo should feel secure, never painful. The American Academy of Dermatology says that a hairstyle that hurts is too tight, and notes that updos, buns and ponytails pulled tight can lead to hair loss over time, often starting at the hairline. Tell your stylist right away if anything pinches, and choose looser styles if you wear your hair up often.

At the end of the evening, take out the pins slowly, one by one, and work through the hair gently with your fingers before reaching for a brush. A rinse with plenty of conditioner the next morning helps release any remaining spray. If you notice broken hairs or thinning along your hairline, see a dermatologist.

Sources: American Academy of Dermatology: Hairstyles that pull can cause hair loss

This guide is general information, not medical advice. For scalp, skin or hair-loss concerns, see a dermatologist.